This is a review of the highly anticipated set 42056 Porsche 911 GT3 RS.
Finally Lego has improved the packaging of the shipments. Sturdy cardboard outer box has protected the contents from damage, and I can now demonstrate the set's box in its original glory.
The box measures approximately 47.5 x 37.5 x 15 cm.
Due to the hard surface of the box, the seals can be easily removed even without any special tools. It may be helpful should you choose to keep the box, but please be careful if you plan to buy the set from some untrustworthy reseller.
Left side of the box
Digital instructions are available at the Lego site.
Instructions booklet measures 27.1 x 20.7 x 2.5 cm (slightly shorter than A4) (a monkey is shown for scale).
The instructions have an introduction about Porsche 911 and the design process of the model.
The real cars:
The history of the model:
Finally we have an explanation of what we are building at the current stage, and not only a description but also a photo of the real prototype.
The numbering is now continuous and includes submodels (but excludes inline callouts):
The instructions contain some controversial steps. For example, axle 6L we insert at step 362 (page 259) and also at step 380 (page 266) will not be easy to remove.
Another example is connecting together two plates 2 x 8 at step 705 (page 489) despite the fact we even do not have a brick separator.
Compare the lengths of the building stages:
There are a total of 856 major steps and 580 pages in the instructions.
There is a notification about a special laser engraved tile with unique code for unlocking some bonus digital content.
No cheap advertisements (pun intended)!
The boxes are packed very tight.
Separate inventories for each box are available via the links provided below. Complete set inventory is listed here.
Box #3: 4 numbered bags
Box #4: 4 numbered bags
Unfortunately, there are not many new parts.
New printed tiles:
New Technic parts:
Black and orange Panels 7 x 3
Steering portal 23801
All new parts (except the wheels):
Parts in new colors
Parts in new colors:
Orange Technic panels and other parts (most of which are quite rare):
Orange Technic parts
The distance between the connection points and the side of the wheel is approximately 4 studs:
Unfortunately, the new rim does not fit the portal hub:
Problems start from the very beginning. The assembly we build on steps 4—7 (refer to the first photo below) generates some friction — try to remove the central round connector to feel the difference. I would suggest replacing the connector with two bushes (there are three spares).
The second photo below demonstrates a simple mechanism which switches between 3 modes: forward (Drive), Neutral and Reverse. Bottom yellow axle on the right is the input from the gearbox and the yellow connector is the output to the wheels. It is easy to see that red clutch gears rotate in opposite directions. Driving ring is sitting on a white 3-position connector.
This mechanism allows to use the same set of gears for reverse driving.
The infamous gearbox issue
The core of the gearbox looks like that:
You have probably noticed a white clutch gear on the left (note that it is not sitting on the same axle as dark bluish gray gear 24). It is placed in the drive train between the gearbox and the wheels to protect the gearbox from damage when some gears unexpectedly get stuck when the model is being driven by hand.
Gears and gear ratios of the gearbox according to the instructions (input is on the right and output is on the left):
Right clutch engaged
Gear ratio 3:5
Left clutch engaged
Gear ratio 5:3
Right clutch engaged
Gear ratio 1:1
Left clutch engaged
Gear ratio 3:1
So the gear ratios are as follows: 3:5, 5:3, 1:1, 3:1.
Obviously the 2nd and the 3rd gears should be switched so that the gear ratios would be 3:5, 1:1, 5:3, 3:1.
It is quite easy to do: we just need to change 4 gears on the right. In the instructions, they are installed at a much further step when the model is also turned upside down, which may be the source of the mistake. I added these gears to the assembly to clearly show the gear ratios.
Anyway, all we need to do is to swap the gear pairs like this:
The erroneous steps in the instructions are 267-269 (pages 190-192). The following pictures show the changes that should be made to achieve the correct gear order (note that the model is turned upside down like in the instructions):
LEGO's response to this gearbox issue has caused plenty of disbelief:
Thank you to all our dedicated fans for the comments regarding the GT3 RS by LEGO Technic.
It is correct that the gears in this model are not sequential as in the real Porsche PDK. This is however, a deliberate decision taken to ensure that we make the best possible LEGO version of this amazing car that both meets our design requirements and gives everyone a great building and product experience.
It was a considered decision taken during development that the gears running in the correct order meant that it did not result in a great experience when driving the car. Too many gears are engaged at the same time and smooth running with all those tolerances is just not possible.
If you switch the build in steps 267 and 269 the gears will run sequentially, and everyone who feels that this is the better solution should feel encouraged to do so.
LEGO Technic really is the ultimate open source design product and now that it is finally available, we look forward to seeing all the ‘improved’ models our fans create. After all, that is what LEGO building is all about.
We hope everyone will have a great building experience and feel a strong sense of pride from creating both our version and their very own LEGO Technic representation of a Porsche GT3 RS. We are very fortunate to have such skilled and dedicated fans that can spot this small deviation from reality and would like to thank everyone for sharing their ideas and expert knowledge.
By the way, as you have probably noticed, the gearbox have an excessive number of gears , most of which are idle gears. This is definitely not a compact and effective gearbox.
Gear changing mechanism
The first photo below shows the core of the gear changing mechanism. So how does it work? It is basically a cam gear mechanism. It has two moving sides (one for shifting gears up and another for shifting gears down) which bring the yellow knob gears in contact with the red "cams". However, if you try it now, nothing will happen. The central knob gear is just turning back and forth, but no incremental turning is happening. The crucial part of this mechanism is the small gear pointed in the second photo below which is sitting on a friction pin and thus holds the shaft when knob gears are released.
Also note that the shaft rotates slightly backwards after changing of gears. It may cause a gearbox malfunction when one of the clutches is being engaged while another has not been fully disengaged. Take a look at the sample picture below. The gearbox has been switched from the 2nd to the 3rd gear, and the right clutch has been engaged, but the left clutch has not been properly disengaged, which results in a periodic jamming of gears.
First photo below demonstrate completed steering column that combines steering wheel and paddles for switching gears up (right) and down (left). Unfortunately there is no indication of the selected gear.
Rubber bands are a very cheap solution. They will be visible from the cabin and this undermines the aesthetics. Also it is not very comfortable to grab the levers. Extending them by 1 stud would have been very helpful. Finally, there are no spare bands.
There is no stop after reaching the highest or lowest gear, so you can switch directly from the 4th to the 1st gear or vice versa, which can cause a lot of stress in the gearbox. It could have been easily fixed with a simple stopper as shown in the picture below.
The model has a simple suspension taken from previous sets. No imitation of the active suspension management system of the real car.
Steering mechanism (sadly no Ackermann steering geometry):
The new steering hubs are only used to mount yellow fake brakes:
Simple linkage to the steering wheel:
Unfortunately there is no so-called Hand of God (HOG) steering, so the only way to turn it is with the actual wheel inside the car.
Orange connectors and tan pins shown in the photo below intentionally limit the steering angle of the wheels. However, if we remove the pins, the steering angle will improve but hubs and wheels will touch the suspension elements (refer to the second photo below). As we can see, the rims are quite deep but not big enough to fit the standard suspension assembly at large steering angles. Also, if we remove the restraints, the wheels may touch the inside of the chassis which is yet to be built.
There is no rear wheels steering like in the real car.
Fake motor is an imitation of a flat 6-cylinder engine but not a proper boxer engine like in the real car.
The addition of such a complex (or rather overcomplicated) gearbox seems to be useless without motorization, at least optional. Instead, the drive train is only used to rotate the fake engine when the car is driven by hand (i.e. it works in reverse direction). I guess that the lack of optional motorization is supposed to hide the poor performance of the gearbox.
Full drive train:
The following photo demonstrates the result of the first stage of building. The pistons are now hardly visible which makes the fake engine useless - as well as the gearbox.
The floor plan of the car:
The so-called marriage of the body and the chassis:
16 pins (8 at each side) are used to connect the body:
Unfortunately, we will be adding parts to the car after the marriage which will make it impossible to quickly separate the body. Fully modular design of the model would have been a much more interesting feature.
The result of this stage:
Panels, panels and more panels.
Yellow axle 11L is used in the assembly shown below. Obviously the use of this new part could have been easily avoided.
The model is almost finished and only lacks wheels:
Overall, the car certainly looks impressive when completed. The bright orange doesn't quite match the more reddish orange of the real life Porsche car but it does the job of making it stand out and scream "Look At Me!".
But when examining the details, the flex axle on the rear side of the car is an attempt to hide its squarish look. Not to mention awful rear lights...
A lot of colored pins are sticking out everywhere! At the same time, black axles 2L are used in the door handles instead of the regular red ones.
Wheels with printed RS tiles:
Imitation of the brakes by tiles with stickers (not applied here) is quite a cheap solution.
Opening doors, hood and trunk:
By the way, thanks to those dual-sided front wheel arches we have 4 undecorated arch pieces in addition to the printed ones, which may be very useful for MOCs of different cars.
The doors do not have locks but have linkages that limit their opening angles.
Mirrors consist of single panels and are not fixed in place.
The cabin is not comfortable. The steering column is massive and leaves little space for a driver. Control elements are not easily reachable by hand. Unfortunately, there is no Hand of God (HOG) steering option, so the wheels are operated only by the steering wheel which is turning with difficulty and has a large backlash. Moreover, the wheels tend to return to the central position. All in all, it is easier to turn the wheels by hand than use the steering wheel.
Opening trunk, hood and glove compartment, adjustable spoiler:
The engine is barely visible.
Suspension is working but it is almost useless because of the low ground clearance.
Approximate steering angles (blue - default, green - without tan pin, red dot - steering axle):
The wheels touch the suspension elements before they can touch the arches.
If the gearbox is engaged and the car is driven by hand, the most common sound is a strained chatter of slipping or jammed gears.
This is the most expensive and overpriced Technic set, other sets are cheaper and/or have more functions and parts. Supercar MOCs can be expensive too, but they are usually far more complex and have lots of functions.
However, I'm sure there will be a lot of Technic/Supercar fans buying it anyway. It looks fantastic and makes a great display piece (albeit a very expensive one). From the Rebrickable stats, there are already over 100 users who own the set, so it would be great to hear from them - was it worth it?
Disclaimer: This LEGO set was provided for review by The LEGO Group. Anything said in this post is the opinion of the author and not The LEGO Group.