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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/26/18 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    As a suggestion, it would be useful to have an additional toggle option in the Inventory Options on the a Set page to "Highlight Lost Parts". Perhaps since missing parts are red, owned parts are green, lost parts should be orange? Alternatively, instead of yet another toggle option, just extend the existing "Highlight Missing Parts" toggle to also highlight "Lost" parts (but in a different colour like orange)? And since it's related, perhaps either an additional toggle to "Hide Lost Parts" or, again, extend the existing "Hide Missing Parts" toggle to include "Lost" parts as well. (See attached) My personal preference would be to extend the existing "Missing Part" toggles to avoid more clutter in the Options menu, but I'm sure there will people who use the existing functions in a particular way which would get disrupted I actually assumed that this was how it worked from the start, because when you start out with not many sets, it effectively does. It's only once you get multiple sets with the same part that the difference between how "missing" and "lost" parts becomes apparent. I realise there is the "Lost Parts" view under the MY LEGO menu, but that's like an overall summary across all sets. I feel that a quick way of checking which parts are lost from a given set when checking it's inventory list would be useful.
  2. 3 points
    Now that Rebrickable has an integrated marketplace for instructions, have you thought about revisiting the 'Tip Jar/Donation' suggestion? I'm pretty sure someone suggested it years ago. I really like the idea of keeping my instructions freely available to the community, but having a way for those who can afford it to show their appreciation via making a donation. Rebrickable could take a small percentage for facilitating the donation. J
  3. 3 points
    Simon

    MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!

    On behalf of the entire team I would like to wish all of our Forum members a very merry Christmas; for you and your loved ones; and hoping your next year will be healthy, happy and creative; Happy Bricksmas! Simon
  4. 3 points
    I had photos ready for my new part submits but couldn't submit them at the same time, looks like I have to wait for the part to be approved before I can submit photos. That is very inefficient an it doesn't give the admin all the information to base a new mold or print entry on. Would be good if I could upload at least one photo during this process.
  5. 3 points
    Firstly, some clarifying info is needed. As you've discovered, we inventory levers by assembly. Base and handle, we don't inventory this part separately. Do your parts have handles? Then you say Gray Base, but what gray. You need to determine if it's Light Gray, Dark Gray, Light Bluish Gray, or Dark Bluish Gray. Secondly, in our database the assemblies are inventoried by Handle color. If, for example, you look at 298c01 you'll see they all have Yellow Handles (as stated in the Part Name), then the Yellow handle has appeared with a Yellow, Black, and Blue base in Official Lego sets so they are on the table as options. Under them you'll see the options that Users have created to use in MOC's. These are not Official Lego assemblies as they have not appeared in a Set. So you need to determine the color of you Handle, find the assembly, then add it to your List in the color of the base you have. If it's not one of the official Lego assemblies the part will display as having a Part Error or Color Error on your list. That's just telling you your part shouldn't exist, it will still be represented on your list for Build Calc purposes. Lastly, if you only have the bases you can inventory them on your Parts List using the same numbers BrickLink use (4592, & 4593). These will also show as Part Errors or Color Errors as they haven't appeared as a separate part in an Official Lego Set but they will still be on your Parts List. Hope that helps, Jared
  6. 3 points
    Simon

    How did it start?

    OK, this might be silly, but what the heck! The photo below was taken in April 1961, a couple of weeks after my 4th birthday, I am still too small to sit on a chair normally, so I have to sit on my knees, and I am playing with... LEGO! That's how it started for me! -smile- Take care, Simon
  7. 2 points
    Vokhev

    Direct links to colour/setlist

    That's simply awesome. This will make inventorying bulk lots so much quicker. I just can't get over how much you're listening to the community for things like this and how quickly you include them. Thank you very much!
  8. 2 points
    Well I must assume you can download a instruction you bought more than ones, so maybe someone did.
  9. 2 points
    Simon

    Editing Part Photos

    Greetings, Folks; Almost every day we receive newly submitted part photos, and we really appreciate the time and effort our members put into helping us improving our website. Obviously, any photo is better than no photo at all, but as we get more and more part photos, quality becomes a determining issue, and we have to reject photo's when the quality is too low. That is a shame, and a waste of your (and our) time. If you spend a couple of minutes to find the right part, without dirt and scratches, another few minutes to set up your lights, and camera, and to find the right angle and composition, why not spend another minute to edit your photo and turn it into a perfect part photo, which we would never reject? If you don't know how to do that, I created a small and very basic tutorial, and published it as a new Help page. It uses a free program called GIMP and in a dozen easy steps you learn to improve the quality of all your LEGO photos, including photos of your MOCs. If, after reading the tutorial, you have any questions, feel free to post them here. And if you give this a try, you can also share your before and after photo in this thread. Looking forward to seeing your photos... Take care, Simon
  10. 2 points
    Simon

    Updating LDraw Images

    Greetings, Folks During the last three month we have been working on a set of updated LDraw part images, and with the new hardware that Nathan added recently, we can now slowly start implementing the new images. In this post I want to outline the problems with our current set of LDraw part images, describe the scope of the update project, present a schedule of the implementation, and look forward to more improvements during the coming year. In the next post, I will show examples of current and updated LDraw part images. Backgrounds Our current set of LDraw part images is based upon 11,000 LDraw part definitions and it was generated in 2016 with some small updates in the following years. As we need an image for each part in every used color, and we had about 135 different colors back then, our current set of LDraw part images totals about 73,000 items, varying in size from 100x75px to 250x250 px. There are some problems with our current LDraw part images: some images seem to have a wrong color (black and red most obviously) the quality of the some images (transparent parts) is not so good white and transparent parts are difficult to recognize the viewing angle of LDraw images is the opposite to the angle of element images some parts are better displayed full front photos can be zoomed out to 500x500px, LDraw images can't we current have 178 colors and many new colors don't have the right LDraw images most important: there are many new LDraw definitions that we currently don't use Scope November last year we started researching these problems. Our new set is based upon 14,364 LDraw definitions, consisting of full LDraw official and unofficial libraries, and several third-party libraries. The rendering of the bulk of the new images took two month, December and January, with ten quad-cores running simultaneously for 16 hours per day, approximating some 10,000 hours computer time. All bulk rendering was done with PovRay with image generation by L3P. Our new LDraw part images are four time as large (500x500px), rendered at the highest quality. Viewing angle and colors problems of all solid colors are all corrected. Most importantly, we will be adding about 4,000 new LDraw images, and our total image set is expected to grow to about 100,000 items. For special colors, such as transparent, metallic, chrome, speckle, glitter, glow-in-dark, rubber, pearl, PovRay is not delivering the most perfect results. For these colors, we are going to use Studio's Eyesight renderer instead of PovRay. For the most common parts, these Eyesight images have already been rendered, and they will be part of the initial update. The remainder will follow afterwards. Schedule Knowing that a large update like this will inevitably produce new errors, we are going to implement the new part images in small steps. I am still working on those Eyesight special color renders, and it will take at least four month to finish those, so the entire update will take at least that period. We will start by updating the Unknown images, which are used when we do not have an image in the right color. An example of this can be seen here. The color Vintage Green was introduced for parts from the period 1945 to 1958, but the thumbnails are shown in blue, because we do not have rendered those parts in the right color yet. This means that for many parts for which we now haven't got an ldraw image, an new part image will occur, but with the default color for Unknown, which is a Medium Dark Blue. We already have a lot of these unknown colored ldraw images, but if you notice some new ones, there is an easy way to check: if all the colors of the part show the same image with the same color, then the image is newly added in the unknown color. When we add all the other colors during then next few month, they will replace the unknown color images automatically, and eventually, all parts for which we have an ldraw image should show all available colors correctly. When the new Unknown images are available, we are going to take a couple of weeks to check for errors and correct them. Then all corrected parts need to be re-rendered in all the right colors. When that is done, we will slowly, color for color, update the existing set of images. More Improvements For the second half of this year, we hope to implement even more improvements of the LDraw images, including Eyesight renderings for all transparent, metallic, chrome, speckle, glitter, glow-in-dark, pearl colors, and using rubber black for all black tires and such. The latter will NOT change the color code for black tires, but it will make the images look more natural. Conclusion In a perfect world a quality improvement such as this might even go unnoticed; but in the real world many will immediately see some differences, and wonder what we're up to now. I hope by announcing this update in as much detail as I can, I have taken away some of your worries. I will be updating this thread to keep you informed of new developments, and if you have any questions, or you think you see an error or a problem, please let me know. Take care, Simon
  11. 2 points
    Vokhev

    Stickers

    The post about stickers in the Help forum got me thinking. I think there is a way to manage stickers in Rebrickable as is, without development. The key is the alternate inventory feature. Stickered parts would be inventoried as printed parts (Bricklink's term "decorated" would be better but that's cosmetic). The default inventory would stay as it is and have all parts unstickered. If someone has a set for which they want to keep track of stickered parts, they could submit the stickered parts then submit a second inventory where the stickered parts are included instead of the unstickered variations. This would require no development and it would have 0 impact on people who don't care about stickers since the default inventory stays the same. Even if someone includes stickered parts in a MOC, since there is already a feature to ignore printed parts so the stickers could be ignored. Obviously, a separate feature for prints and stickers would be ideal and this solution doesn't take into account cases where people only apply some stickers in a set but it would still be pretty good. The only impact I see is that the admins would have to manage the new parts and inventory submissions. But since these would be added on demand, not systematically for all sets in the database, it would probably not be massive.
  12. 2 points
    I seem to have both, so if I have enough light tomorrow, I will create a function comparison image that shows both parts, and add links in the part description of both. They are not the same, but very fact that the length difference is difficult to see, means a good comparison image would be helpful. (If I have bad light tomorrow, it might take a few days... -smile-)
  13. 2 points
    Marook

    Sort parts in inventory by quantity

    Hi All, To me, it would be great if we could sort the Parts lists by Piece Count, so I could list the huge lots at top or bottom.
  14. 2 points
    Simon

    Tip Jar/Donations for free instructions?

    I have been thinking about this: if you want your MOC to be free, and allow people to make a small donation; why not submit that MOC as Rebrickable-hosted Premium, with a minimal price (1 euro?/1 dollar?) and then ADD an ADDITIONAL link to the freely available instructions. You can even put that in the description: "This MOC is FREEMIUM, the instruction are free, but if you want to support me, you can always buy the instructions". If the term Freemium sticks, perhaps that can be shown in the MOC searches. As far as I can tell, this can be done immediately without any technical changes. I am really hoping to see more Freemium MOCs in the near future. For the next few days, I will be searching for "freemium"!
  15. 2 points
    Hi Voyager, Welcome, initially this is all going to sound confusing but I promise after a short while of handling Lego it'll all make sense. So I'll break down the terms for you Element ID - This is a unique number to a part, in a certain color, with a certain print if it has one. For example a 2 x 4 brick has a separate element ID for every color and every print. This number is the one Lego print on the inventory lists in manuals or on boxes. Design ID - This is more complicated. So every mold of a part has the same Design ID, it is usually found molded into the part somewhere. Where confusion comes in is for Printed parts. For example a 2 x 2 Brick has the design ID 3003. This is molded into the underside on the brick. BUT if that 2 x 2 Brick has a print on it Lego assign it a new Design ID. For example 3003pr0038 (which is our number designation, more on that later) That is a 3003, 2 x 2 Brick and will have that number molded on it but Lego gave it Design ID 25660. Another complication with Design ID is when Lego slightly change how they make the part. If the mold is slightly different, or they change a small detail about the part, they will assign it a new Design ID. To make things easier for Lego builders most websites (including Rebrickable) combine these parts. On Rebrickable, if the change is considerable a new part is created and a mold relationship is attached to the part so users can find similar parts. This is why you'll see multiple Design ID's connected to the same part. BOID - This is BrickOwls unique inventory number. It has no more meaning than that. Only BrickOwl use that number. It means Brick Owl ID Rebrickable numbers - We create part numbers for our inventorying needs. Our numbers usually follow the first know Design ID, which is commonly the one molded on the part. Then when that part gets prints we use the designation "pr" for Print, "pat" for Patterns (multicolored marbled parts), or "c0x" for pre-assembled parts, like a Torso, Arms, and Hands part. In my experience Lego.com isn't very helpful. Rebrickable is usually a great place to start when trying to find a part (admitting bias). We link to all other sites too once it's found. Our Search tool is quite comprehensive and once you get more familiar with Part categorizing it becomes extremely easy to find a part with no information. The easiest way to find a part is with element ID. That gets you to the exact part Lego intended. Posting here for help on part identification is also useful as our users are usually more than happy to help. Hope that helps a little. Good Luck.
  16. 2 points
    I have uploaded on GitHub a piece of software that I have developed to manage my LEGO collection. It heavily relies on the Rebrickable API and I would like to thank Nathan and the whole Rebrickable community for having made it possible. My hope is that some of you will find it useful. You can find it here: https://github.com/aburgueno/lego-collection And a thread to discuss about it here:
  17. 2 points
    Currently when creating a ''color switch'' MOC it is added to the ''other'' custom list. However there is no ''Mark as built'' option. Thus I cannot plan my next MOC as I do not know what parts are in use. Can we add option of ''Mark as built'' to color switched MOCs
  18. 2 points
    Simon

    Help with pieces please

    Greetings, JB, A 100 kilo, right? That's gonna take a couple of month... -smile- On the other hand, with a bit of perseverance, you might find some real treasures! All the tips you've had are valid and good, but here's a few more. First, check your privacy settings (your name top right > Settings > Privacy tab). At the bottom you'll find your LEGO Collection Privacy, that controls what other's can see about your LEGO Collection: Public My Sets (all Set Lists will be shown, estimated values are hidden) Public My Parts (all Part Lists will be shown, estimated values and Part Notes are hidden) Public My Lost Parts Set everything to Yes. Now you can copy and paste the link to your part list into a forum post, and others can view your parts and, perhaps, make some suggestions. Secondly, as Przemos notes, look for markers. Those are parts that were only used in a few sets, and some are even unique and only used in a single set. If you can identify a marker, you can more easily find the set to which it belongs. Good markers are all printed parts - use rebrickable to find them (just try searching the text or a description) stickered parts - use google "lego sticker [keywords]" large parts - like those plane noses and wings and such special colors - most common colors are white/black/blue/red/yellow find some orange or brown or tan - search the right part category with an additional color filter doors and windows - all kinds of them, but easier to list (windows and doors), and lots of doors were only used in a few sets. special parts - things like flags, traffic signs, battery boxes, light bricks, ladders, wedges some are used generally, but others only in a few sets Finally, try to get a feel for the age of your bricks. Look at the amount of non-common colors - the more special colors you have, the newer your bricks. Look at the gray bricks. In 2003, LEGO changed the color of Light Gray and Dark Gray into Light Bluish Gray and Dark Bluish Gray. The older gray colors, when seen in sunlight, are somewhat dull, the new colors seem more shiny. If you find the new grays, then your sets are from after 2003. Look at the bottom of your 2 x 4 bricks. If you see: pat pending - bricks are from 1958 to 1974 pat pending obscured - 1974 to 1979 clean (nothing) - 1979 to 1984 3001 (part id) - 1985 to current Now look at the studs, is there a tiny point in the middle of one or more studs? That's a moulding pip. It used to be on de side of the part, but LEGO changed that and put the pips were they can't be seen so easily. So: moulding pip on the edge (short end): 1949 to 1963 moulding pip on the side (long end): 1963 to 1974 moulding pip on the studs: 1974 to current When you know the age of the bricks, say before 1974, it can't be from a set from 1980. -smile- Bricks older then 1963 have a different font used for the logo, but looking at your image, that's unlikely. Good luck, and when in doubt, just ask. Take care, Simon
  19. 2 points
    Diniz Vilhena

    Help with pieces please

    first thing to do: certify that all parts are Lego... every time I buy loose parts, always have some non-Lego mixed second thing to do: take some patience pills
  20. 2 points
    Books 1 and 3 build, so I have the entire rocky foundation ready. No missing missing 2x2 plate or 1x1 brick. I did ran into a problem with the potion bottles in Prof. Snapes office; from the instructions it looked like I needed an Trans-Orange 6141 Plate Round 1 x 1 with Solid Stud, and I really couldn't find it, so I took one out of my own collection, only to discover, a few steps later, when I seemed to need a Goblet in the same colour, that the actual colour was Pearl Gold, and that it was just a weirdly print problem, not a missing piece. So up to now, no real problems...
  21. 2 points
    Wow, you guys sure know how to make a new member feel like they joined the right community. I was expecting a couple of responses from other users about how they live with issues like this...or maybe, at best, an explanation of what I was doing wrong... For anyone keeping score, this comment thread has likely made me a rebrickable evangelist for life!
  22. 2 points
    biodreamer

    Submitting Part Photographs

    Also when it comes to stickers and sticker sheets, paper, some cloth I would use a scanner if possible rather than a camera. They really don't need an angle or 3D effect..
  23. 2 points
    iwzKV45o

    IDENTIFICATION NEEDED

    Hi Toni, I guess these are at least two sets combined - most likely more.There are plenty of Space > M:Tron parts, but the red canopy is either from Classic Space or Space Police 1 as are the blue pieces. Maybe if you walk through the lists of Classic Space / Futuron / Blacktron / M:Tron / Space Police 1 and probably Blacktron II with your son, he can remember which sets he owned. I am his age and I remember very well which sets I owned. Best is of course if you can find the instructions. If all fails, it is possible to enter all the pieces in your Rebrickable Account and then re-combine them into actual sets... Best regards, Markus
  24. 2 points
    Vokhev

    Stickers

    It's interesting because we come at it from very different angles. I honestly don't really care about the build functions. I sometimes use it to see if there are sets I don't have that I could build but it's mostly just out of curiosity. The one thing I use it for is when I'm trying to assemble a set myself out of bought parts to add to my collection. I then set the options to not include my sets in build calculations and I see what loose parts I need to get to complete the set. That's all. To me, the main use of Rebrickable is for inventory. I have to admit, I didn't follow everything Biodreamer said. But tome, the important is to be able to know that: For part X in blue, I have: - 5 without stickers - 2 with sticker A - 1 with sticker B Instead of what I get now where it only tells me I have: - 8 of this part in blue (and I have to remember some of these have stickers) If a solution can do that I would be happy.
  25. 2 points
    Vokhev

    Stickers

    But, aren't the discussion functions on the site all either in MOCs, sets or parts? That's ok if you want to talk about one of these but for general discussions, you would never find them if they were in the comments of MOC #28495. Funny, maybe it's because the MOC part of Rebrickable is not the interesting one for me, maybe it's because I'm used to discussing possibilities for community projects like Rebrickable on a forum, but it feels much more natural to talk about this here. For people, mostly interested in talking about specific items (a MOC, a set or a part), it's ok to not come here. This is a place for more general discussions. It's unfortunate to not have more people interested in talking about ideas that are more "big picture". But if they're not interested in developing the site itself, we can't force them to be interested. But there's at least 3 of us here. So even if it's just between the 3 of us, what do you think of the idea in the original post?
  26. 2 points
    adrien79

    Sort parts by ID number

    Hello, Currently there are five criteria to sort a part list: color, hue, part, category, price. The "part" criteria corresponds to the alphabetical description, I don't find this very useful. But I miss the ability to sort the parts by ID number.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Nathan

    Huge problems to access my total parts

    I managed to make some significant improvements to the All My Parts page (and My Parts) that should make a big difference for you.
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    Nathan

    Better sort the search results

    The search results and ranking should be much better now
  31. 1 point
    Simon

    Vonado - Stolen MOC designs?

    It sure looks like it, but Rebrickable is not authorized to represent MOC designers in such matters. In other words, only the copyright holder (the MOC designer) can issue a cease and desist letter. Perhaps you could inform the designer(s) by posting a comment to the MOC involved. Take care, Simon
  32. 1 point
    I've updated the doco, thanks. No point switching if you are fine using PayPal. The main functional differences on Rebrickable is that you can upgrade/downgrade Plans if you use Stripe (with PayPal you have to cancel and then re-subscribe to the new plan). Yes, the level 20/25/30 certainly do apply to you. If you hit 25 and are still on Pro, I will manually cancel your subscription and make it a permanent upgrade.
  33. 1 point
    Simon

    Updating LDraw Images

    Here are some examples of the improvements: Camera angle and color corrected (left: old/right: new): CLICK TO ENLARGER Transparent: Metallic: Chrome: Speckle: Glitter: Pearl:
  34. 1 point
    Hi, seejay. My apologies, I am the culprit -smile- I am working on basic bricks, adding new part images and link lists, and I added and LDraw mapping for 3002a to get the system to display the LDraw image (as the top of 3002a looks exactly the same as the top of 3002 - the difference is with the bottom of the part); and I forgot to switch off the import/export translation. I switched that off now, so your import should now be OK again. To be sure, we do have an import/export translation for 3002old (Bricklink) and 3002a (BrickOwl). So those still get translated to 3002. If that is still a problem for you, please let me know. Take care, Simon
  35. 1 point
    Simon

    Help with technic organising

    LOL Good question! I started 40 years ago as a programmer, after dropping out of university (Geology) , and been in IT my entire working life. You program in English, not in Dutch. All your documentation (pre-internet) is in English. So I am used to spending 8 hours a day in English, and then coming home and switching to Dutch again. At first, that's not so easy, but after a decade or so, I realized I was actually thinking in English and then speaking in Dutch. Nowadays, I dream in English. And as to the labels, English is about 40% shorter then Dutch, if I had to translate this post into Dutch it would take about 40% more characters. I mean, "gear" is so much easier then "tandwielen". -smile-
  36. 1 point
    Simon

    Editing Part Photos

    You're right, I am actually re-shooting all my part photos in natural light, with better colors and more details. But your "pick white point option" is a great feature, basically resetting white balance, and I did not know that, so thanks for the suggestion. I will add a note about it in the tutorial. As to cropping, I agree, in the Photo Submit dialog you can move and crop manually, but I tried to make the tutorial also useful for MOC photos, and then cropping can be important. Take care, Simon
  37. 1 point
    TobyMac

    Personal lego inventory

    Found it:
  38. 1 point
    jbaddeley

    Possible app for parts?

    Okay so I have thousands of Lego bits a peices that I have no idea which sets they're for ect, is there currently an app I can log all this into? I don't want to be typing thousands of piece numbers into the search and adding them one by one, does anyone think it would be possible to make an app that uses the camera to identify certain pieces? So say I could snap a picture of a part, the app identifys it then I can choose how many I have and add it to my list?
  39. 1 point
    It was indeed the GB/UK mismatch. It should be working now.
  40. 1 point
    jaredhinton

    Help with pieces please

    The easiest way to find sets is to enter all your parts on a parts list and use the build calculator to see what sets you have. Almost every part has a part number on it. you can use that number to search the database. If that fails the only other option is to go through each Lego category and find your part (the plane parts will be in Transport - Sea and Air category). A few tips: 1. We don't inventory stickered parts. If your part has a sticker you will not find it in our database. 2. Make sure the Year Toggle Bar covers the years you want (the most common reason people can't find something is because they aren't looking in all the years) 3. If in doubt on a particular part post a picture on here. Someone can usually help. Good Luck!
  41. 1 point
    Diniz; why not build all thirty of them (two by two) and make some great photo's of each - I would love to have those for our set catalog. To be sure, if I remember correctly, somone years ago posted a zip with 30 pdfs with instructions, and there might also be lxf files for all of these on Eurobricks (search eurobricks ldd lxf). I probably have that zip somewehre in my archive. If you can't find it online, let me know, and I'll search my backup disks.
  42. 1 point
    biodreamer

    Submitting Part Photographs

    Okay, I will see if I can get some time to do some really old parts and mold, but I hope Nathan fix that color page to include only secondary image of that color.
  43. 1 point
    TobyMac

    Submitting Part Photographs

    One part per photo. We got some submissions where there were several of the same part in different angles on 1 photo. This looks messy in an inventory or search result. If it is of importance to show more angles of a part, please submit multiple photos.
  44. 1 point
    Vokhev

    someone already tried... ?

    In the video instructions I used for peroxide treatment (Jangbricks) they specifically said not to use it on stickers so I haven't tried. My suggestion would be to first try on a sticker you don't mind loosing.
  45. 1 point
    Simon

    Premium MOC name restrictions

    Hi Kristof; The term Star Destroyer is a trademark of the Disney Corporation and should not be used commercially. Premium MOC are a commercial product, and by using trademarked terms in the MOC title, both the designer (as seller) and Rebrickable (as shop) are risking legal claims for trademark infringement. Fair use does not apply as Star Destroyer is not a term commonly used in normal conversation. We are in the process of removing trademarks from MOC titles, and, to make sure no new problems would arise, we have placed restrictions on the MOC title. In other words, the other Premium MOC you refer to also need to remove the term. This is just a precaution, we don't want to get you or anyone else in any trouble. Hope you understand. Take care, Simon
  46. 1 point
    jaredhinton

    find parts

    Middle is this https://rebrickable.com/parts/bb85/swan-neck-trailer-base-4-x-13/. Unique to a tractor set.
  47. 1 point
    TobyMac

    HOW TO DOWNLOAD INSTRUCTIONS

    As far as I have access to the MOC admin page, it looks like you also get a file for stud.io .io). This is the digital build tool from BrickLink. You can download it for free here: https://studio.bricklink.com/v2/build/studio.page
  48. 1 point
    Hi Jared, Thank you for the clarification. I didn’t realize that the set database is community-driven and I, too, could contribute. Anyway, it’s done: https://rebrickable.com/sets/2000715-1/wedo-20-replacement-pack/ ?
  49. 1 point
    Hi Kikiyoshi, If you are high enough ranked on the site why not give submitting a set a try. You gain more points (and eventually badges) for doing so. It's quite straight-forward but if you have any problems just ask, we'll gladly offer advice.
  50. 1 point
    Nathan

    Link forum and main page profiles

    They used to be linked, but a forum software upgrade broke it and I could never get it working again. It would be nice, but beyond me at the moment.