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  1. 8 points
    Now that Rebrickable has an integrated marketplace for instructions, have you thought about revisiting the 'Tip Jar/Donation' suggestion? I'm pretty sure someone suggested it years ago. I really like the idea of keeping my instructions freely available to the community, but having a way for those who can afford it to show their appreciation via making a donation. Rebrickable could take a small percentage for facilitating the donation. J
  2. 5 points
    As a suggestion, it would be useful to have an additional toggle option in the Inventory Options on the a Set page to "Highlight Lost Parts". Perhaps since missing parts are red, owned parts are green, lost parts should be orange? Alternatively, instead of yet another toggle option, just extend the existing "Highlight Missing Parts" toggle to also highlight "Lost" parts (but in a different colour like orange)? And since it's related, perhaps either an additional toggle to "Hide Lost Parts" or, again, extend the existing "Hide Missing Parts" toggle to include "Lost" parts as well. (See attached) My personal preference would be to extend the existing "Missing Part" toggles to avoid more clutter in the Options menu, but I'm sure there will people who use the existing functions in a particular way which would get disrupted I actually assumed that this was how it worked from the start, because when you start out with not many sets, it effectively does. It's only once you get multiple sets with the same part that the difference between how "missing" and "lost" parts becomes apparent. I realise there is the "Lost Parts" view under the MY LEGO menu, but that's like an overall summary across all sets. I feel that a quick way of checking which parts are lost from a given set when checking it's inventory list would be useful.
  3. 4 points
    adrien79

    Sort parts by ID number

    Hello, Currently there are five criteria to sort a part list: color, hue, part, category, price. The "part" criteria corresponds to the alphabetical description, I don't find this very useful. But I miss the ability to sort the parts by ID number.
  4. 3 points
    AxeSlash

    Multiple sort criteria

    It would be nice if we could have multiple sort criteria. For example, sort by category, THEN by colour, THEN by part name.
  5. 3 points
    Simon

    Editing Part Photos

    Greetings, Folks; Almost every day we receive newly submitted part photos, and we really appreciate the time and effort our members put into helping us improving our website. Obviously, any photo is better than no photo at all, but as we get more and more part photos, quality becomes a determining issue, and we have to reject photo's when the quality is too low. That is a shame, and a waste of your (and our) time. If you spend a couple of minutes to find the right part, without dirt and scratches, another few minutes to set up your lights, and camera, and to find the right angle and composition, why not spend another minute to edit your photo and turn it into a perfect part photo, which we would never reject? If you don't know how to do that, I created a small and very basic tutorial, and published it as a new Help page. It uses a free program called GIMP and in a dozen easy steps you learn to improve the quality of all your LEGO photos, including photos of your MOCs. If, after reading the tutorial, you have any questions, feel free to post them here. And if you give this a try, you can also share your before and after photo in this thread. Looking forward to seeing your photos... Take care, Simon
  6. 3 points
    Marook

    Sort parts in inventory by quantity

    Hi All, To me, it would be great if we could sort the Parts lists by Piece Count, so I could list the huge lots at top or bottom.
  7. 3 points
    Simon

    MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!

    On behalf of the entire team I would like to wish all of our Forum members a very merry Christmas; for you and your loved ones; and hoping your next year will be healthy, happy and creative; Happy Bricksmas! Simon
  8. 3 points
    I had photos ready for my new part submits but couldn't submit them at the same time, looks like I have to wait for the part to be approved before I can submit photos. That is very inefficient an it doesn't give the admin all the information to base a new mold or print entry on. Would be good if I could upload at least one photo during this process.
  9. 3 points
    Firstly, some clarifying info is needed. As you've discovered, we inventory levers by assembly. Base and handle, we don't inventory this part separately. Do your parts have handles? Then you say Gray Base, but what gray. You need to determine if it's Light Gray, Dark Gray, Light Bluish Gray, or Dark Bluish Gray. Secondly, in our database the assemblies are inventoried by Handle color. If, for example, you look at 298c01 you'll see they all have Yellow Handles (as stated in the Part Name), then the Yellow handle has appeared with a Yellow, Black, and Blue base in Official Lego sets so they are on the table as options. Under them you'll see the options that Users have created to use in MOC's. These are not Official Lego assemblies as they have not appeared in a Set. So you need to determine the color of you Handle, find the assembly, then add it to your List in the color of the base you have. If it's not one of the official Lego assemblies the part will display as having a Part Error or Color Error on your list. That's just telling you your part shouldn't exist, it will still be represented on your list for Build Calc purposes. Lastly, if you only have the bases you can inventory them on your Parts List using the same numbers BrickLink use (4592, & 4593). These will also show as Part Errors or Color Errors as they haven't appeared as a separate part in an Official Lego Set but they will still be on your Parts List. Hope that helps, Jared
  10. 3 points
    Simon

    How did it start?

    OK, this might be silly, but what the heck! The photo below was taken in April 1961, a couple of weeks after my 4th birthday, I am still too small to sit on a chair normally, so I have to sit on my knees, and I am playing with... LEGO! That's how it started for me! -smile- Take care, Simon
  11. 3 points
    dkurok

    Storage Bin Location For Parts

    Hello, can't await Version 3! Maybe one suggestion for new version: It would be very helpful to have an additional field on each part (set parts + loose parts) where I can write in the location where this part is stored in my collection (~60k parts). Maybe other users have the additional wish to have that per part-color key (when they store same part but different color in different bin). Showing this location in the overview of a Set (MOC or TLG) would b very helpful then to find the parts needed for the build. Additionally a remark-field on a per set base (for My Sets) would be nice. If multiple set of the same ID are in My Sets (for example 2 times 42030-1), there should be a comment for each of them (for example one with "build", the other with "sealed" or "new"). Many thanks!
  12. 3 points
    Lore Zyra

    Multiple sort criteria

    Even better would be to remember my last filter so I don't have to always select these options!
  13. 2 points
    Vokhev

    Stickers

    The post about stickers in the Help forum got me thinking. I think there is a way to manage stickers in Rebrickable as is, without development. The key is the alternate inventory feature. Stickered parts would be inventoried as printed parts (Bricklink's term "decorated" would be better but that's cosmetic). The default inventory would stay as it is and have all parts unstickered. If someone has a set for which they want to keep track of stickered parts, they could submit the stickered parts then submit a second inventory where the stickered parts are included instead of the unstickered variations. This would require no development and it would have 0 impact on people who don't care about stickers since the default inventory stays the same. Even if someone includes stickered parts in a MOC, since there is already a feature to ignore printed parts so the stickers could be ignored. Obviously, a separate feature for prints and stickers would be ideal and this solution doesn't take into account cases where people only apply some stickers in a set but it would still be pretty good. The only impact I see is that the admins would have to manage the new parts and inventory submissions. But since these would be added on demand, not systematically for all sets in the database, it would probably not be massive.
  14. 2 points
    When I'm starting a build, I often first gather all the needed parts before building (due to the way I store my LEGO,I don't want to stand up for each part ) I think it would be handy have a page with the partlist with part, color and needed quantity, and behind that a column whit a checkbox that you can mark when you have found that part, maybe with a textbox where you can fill in the number of parts you have found if you don't have them all yet. Ideal would be some kind of refresh-function that refreshes the part-list and leaves out all parts that you have already found. For commercial purpuses: add the link that makes a BrickLink/BrickOwl wanted list of all remaining parts? Hope I'm explaining it clearly enough like this
  15. 2 points
    Vokhev

    Direct links to colour/setlist

    That's simply awesome. This will make inventorying bulk lots so much quicker. I just can't get over how much you're listening to the community for things like this and how quickly you include them. Thank you very much!
  16. 2 points
    Well I must assume you can download a instruction you bought more than ones, so maybe someone did.
  17. 2 points
    dkurok

    Mark set as build/assembled in SetList

    In the "My Sets" overview of the sets (in a setlist) add a button to mark a set as "build/assembled" (see attachment for suggestion) This makes it easier for owners of bigger collections, who have maybe a lot of sets assembeld and don't want to use them in build calculations. Going into each sets details and then doing the same is a little bit awkward. Best regards Dietmar
  18. 2 points
    Simon

    Updating LDraw Images

    Greetings, Folks During the last three month we have been working on a set of updated LDraw part images, and with the new hardware that Nathan added recently, we can now slowly start implementing the new images. In this post I want to outline the problems with our current set of LDraw part images, describe the scope of the update project, present a schedule of the implementation, and look forward to more improvements during the coming year. In the next post, I will show examples of current and updated LDraw part images. Backgrounds Our current set of LDraw part images is based upon 11,000 LDraw part definitions and it was generated in 2016 with some small updates in the following years. As we need an image for each part in every used color, and we had about 135 different colors back then, our current set of LDraw part images totals about 73,000 items, varying in size from 100x75px to 250x250 px. There are some problems with our current LDraw part images: some images seem to have a wrong color (black and red most obviously) the quality of the some images (transparent parts) is not so good white and transparent parts are difficult to recognize the viewing angle of LDraw images is the opposite to the angle of element images some parts are better displayed full front photos can be zoomed out to 500x500px, LDraw images can't we current have 178 colors and many new colors don't have the right LDraw images most important: there are many new LDraw definitions that we currently don't use Scope November last year we started researching these problems. Our new set is based upon 14,364 LDraw definitions, consisting of full LDraw official and unofficial libraries, and several third-party libraries. The rendering of the bulk of the new images took two month, December and January, with ten quad-cores running simultaneously for 16 hours per day, approximating some 10,000 hours computer time. All bulk rendering was done with PovRay with image generation by L3P. Our new LDraw part images are four time as large (500x500px), rendered at the highest quality. Viewing angle and colors problems of all solid colors are all corrected. Most importantly, we will be adding about 4,000 new LDraw images, and our total image set is expected to grow to about 100,000 items. For special colors, such as transparent, metallic, chrome, speckle, glitter, glow-in-dark, rubber, pearl, PovRay is not delivering the most perfect results. For these colors, we are going to use Studio's Eyesight renderer instead of PovRay. For the most common parts, these Eyesight images have already been rendered, and they will be part of the initial update. The remainder will follow afterwards. Schedule Knowing that a large update like this will inevitably produce new errors, we are going to implement the new part images in small steps. I am still working on those Eyesight special color renders, and it will take at least four month to finish those, so the entire update will take at least that period. We will start by updating the Unknown images, which are used when we do not have an image in the right color. An example of this can be seen here. The color Vintage Green was introduced for parts from the period 1945 to 1958, but the thumbnails are shown in blue, because we do not have rendered those parts in the right color yet. This means that for many parts for which we now haven't got an ldraw image, an new part image will occur, but with the default color for Unknown, which is a Medium Dark Blue. We already have a lot of these unknown colored ldraw images, but if you notice some new ones, there is an easy way to check: if all the colors of the part show the same image with the same color, then the image is newly added in the unknown color. When we add all the other colors during then next few month, they will replace the unknown color images automatically, and eventually, all parts for which we have an ldraw image should show all available colors correctly. When the new Unknown images are available, we are going to take a couple of weeks to check for errors and correct them. Then all corrected parts need to be re-rendered in all the right colors. When that is done, we will slowly, color for color, update the existing set of images. More Improvements For the second half of this year, we hope to implement even more improvements of the LDraw images, including Eyesight renderings for all transparent, metallic, chrome, speckle, glitter, glow-in-dark, pearl colors, and using rubber black for all black tires and such. The latter will NOT change the color code for black tires, but it will make the images look more natural. Conclusion In a perfect world a quality improvement such as this might even go unnoticed; but in the real world many will immediately see some differences, and wonder what we're up to now. I hope by announcing this update in as much detail as I can, I have taken away some of your worries. I will be updating this thread to keep you informed of new developments, and if you have any questions, or you think you see an error or a problem, please let me know. Take care, Simon
  19. 2 points
    I seem to have both, so if I have enough light tomorrow, I will create a function comparison image that shows both parts, and add links in the part description of both. They are not the same, but very fact that the length difference is difficult to see, means a good comparison image would be helpful. (If I have bad light tomorrow, it might take a few days... -smile-)
  20. 2 points
    Simon

    Tip Jar/Donations for free instructions?

    I have been thinking about this: if you want your MOC to be free, and allow people to make a small donation; why not submit that MOC as Rebrickable-hosted Premium, with a minimal price (1 euro?/1 dollar?) and then ADD an ADDITIONAL link to the freely available instructions. You can even put that in the description: "This MOC is FREEMIUM, the instruction are free, but if you want to support me, you can always buy the instructions". If the term Freemium sticks, perhaps that can be shown in the MOC searches. As far as I can tell, this can be done immediately without any technical changes. I am really hoping to see more Freemium MOCs in the near future. For the next few days, I will be searching for "freemium"!
  21. 2 points
    Hi Voyager, Welcome, initially this is all going to sound confusing but I promise after a short while of handling Lego it'll all make sense. So I'll break down the terms for you Element ID - This is a unique number to a part, in a certain color, with a certain print if it has one. For example a 2 x 4 brick has a separate element ID for every color and every print. This number is the one Lego print on the inventory lists in manuals or on boxes. Design ID - This is more complicated. So every mold of a part has the same Design ID, it is usually found molded into the part somewhere. Where confusion comes in is for Printed parts. For example a 2 x 2 Brick has the design ID 3003. This is molded into the underside on the brick. BUT if that 2 x 2 Brick has a print on it Lego assign it a new Design ID. For example 3003pr0038 (which is our number designation, more on that later) That is a 3003, 2 x 2 Brick and will have that number molded on it but Lego gave it Design ID 25660. Another complication with Design ID is when Lego slightly change how they make the part. If the mold is slightly different, or they change a small detail about the part, they will assign it a new Design ID. To make things easier for Lego builders most websites (including Rebrickable) combine these parts. On Rebrickable, if the change is considerable a new part is created and a mold relationship is attached to the part so users can find similar parts. This is why you'll see multiple Design ID's connected to the same part. BOID - This is BrickOwls unique inventory number. It has no more meaning than that. Only BrickOwl use that number. It means Brick Owl ID Rebrickable numbers - We create part numbers for our inventorying needs. Our numbers usually follow the first know Design ID, which is commonly the one molded on the part. Then when that part gets prints we use the designation "pr" for Print, "pat" for Patterns (multicolored marbled parts), or "c0x" for pre-assembled parts, like a Torso, Arms, and Hands part. In my experience Lego.com isn't very helpful. Rebrickable is usually a great place to start when trying to find a part (admitting bias). We link to all other sites too once it's found. Our Search tool is quite comprehensive and once you get more familiar with Part categorizing it becomes extremely easy to find a part with no information. The easiest way to find a part is with element ID. That gets you to the exact part Lego intended. Posting here for help on part identification is also useful as our users are usually more than happy to help. Hope that helps a little. Good Luck.
  22. 2 points
    I have uploaded on GitHub a piece of software that I have developed to manage my LEGO collection. It heavily relies on the Rebrickable API and I would like to thank Nathan and the whole Rebrickable community for having made it possible. My hope is that some of you will find it useful. You can find it here: https://github.com/aburgueno/lego-collection And a thread to discuss about it here:
  23. 2 points
    Currently when creating a ''color switch'' MOC it is added to the ''other'' custom list. However there is no ''Mark as built'' option. Thus I cannot plan my next MOC as I do not know what parts are in use. Can we add option of ''Mark as built'' to color switched MOCs
  24. 2 points
    After starting to catalog all my loose MOC parts, I found the post about the limit on parts lists (the number of parts in my list by this point was 4,329) & had to move all the parts to lists broken down by part types to avoid the limit. This was an extremely time consuming task & would have been sped up if I could have tagged/selected multiple items to move to another list, can we get something like this happening?
  25. 2 points
    Simon

    Help with pieces please

    Greetings, JB, A 100 kilo, right? That's gonna take a couple of month... -smile- On the other hand, with a bit of perseverance, you might find some real treasures! All the tips you've had are valid and good, but here's a few more. First, check your privacy settings (your name top right > Settings > Privacy tab). At the bottom you'll find your LEGO Collection Privacy, that controls what other's can see about your LEGO Collection: Public My Sets (all Set Lists will be shown, estimated values are hidden) Public My Parts (all Part Lists will be shown, estimated values and Part Notes are hidden) Public My Lost Parts Set everything to Yes. Now you can copy and paste the link to your part list into a forum post, and others can view your parts and, perhaps, make some suggestions. Secondly, as Przemos notes, look for markers. Those are parts that were only used in a few sets, and some are even unique and only used in a single set. If you can identify a marker, you can more easily find the set to which it belongs. Good markers are all printed parts - use rebrickable to find them (just try searching the text or a description) stickered parts - use google "lego sticker [keywords]" large parts - like those plane noses and wings and such special colors - most common colors are white/black/blue/red/yellow find some orange or brown or tan - search the right part category with an additional color filter doors and windows - all kinds of them, but easier to list (windows and doors), and lots of doors were only used in a few sets. special parts - things like flags, traffic signs, battery boxes, light bricks, ladders, wedges some are used generally, but others only in a few sets Finally, try to get a feel for the age of your bricks. Look at the amount of non-common colors - the more special colors you have, the newer your bricks. Look at the gray bricks. In 2003, LEGO changed the color of Light Gray and Dark Gray into Light Bluish Gray and Dark Bluish Gray. The older gray colors, when seen in sunlight, are somewhat dull, the new colors seem more shiny. If you find the new grays, then your sets are from after 2003. Look at the bottom of your 2 x 4 bricks. If you see: pat pending - bricks are from 1958 to 1974 pat pending obscured - 1974 to 1979 clean (nothing) - 1979 to 1984 3001 (part id) - 1985 to current Now look at the studs, is there a tiny point in the middle of one or more studs? That's a moulding pip. It used to be on de side of the part, but LEGO changed that and put the pips were they can't be seen so easily. So: moulding pip on the edge (short end): 1949 to 1963 moulding pip on the side (long end): 1963 to 1974 moulding pip on the studs: 1974 to current When you know the age of the bricks, say before 1974, it can't be from a set from 1980. -smile- Bricks older then 1963 have a different font used for the logo, but looking at your image, that's unlikely. Good luck, and when in doubt, just ask. Take care, Simon
  26. 2 points
    Diniz Vilhena

    Help with pieces please

    first thing to do: certify that all parts are Lego... every time I buy loose parts, always have some non-Lego mixed second thing to do: take some patience pills
  27. 2 points
    Books 1 and 3 build, so I have the entire rocky foundation ready. No missing missing 2x2 plate or 1x1 brick. I did ran into a problem with the potion bottles in Prof. Snapes office; from the instructions it looked like I needed an Trans-Orange 6141 Plate Round 1 x 1 with Solid Stud, and I really couldn't find it, so I took one out of my own collection, only to discover, a few steps later, when I seemed to need a Goblet in the same colour, that the actual colour was Pearl Gold, and that it was just a weirdly print problem, not a missing piece. So up to now, no real problems...
  28. 2 points
    Wow, you guys sure know how to make a new member feel like they joined the right community. I was expecting a couple of responses from other users about how they live with issues like this...or maybe, at best, an explanation of what I was doing wrong... For anyone keeping score, this comment thread has likely made me a rebrickable evangelist for life!
  29. 2 points
    biodreamer

    Submitting Part Photographs

    Also when it comes to stickers and sticker sheets, paper, some cloth I would use a scanner if possible rather than a camera. They really don't need an angle or 3D effect..
  30. 2 points
    TobyMac

    Submitting Part Photographs

    One part per photo. We got some submissions where there were several of the same part in different angles on 1 photo. This looks messy in an inventory or search result. If it is of importance to show more angles of a part, please submit multiple photos.
  31. 2 points
    iwzKV45o

    IDENTIFICATION NEEDED

    Hi Toni, I guess these are at least two sets combined - most likely more.There are plenty of Space > M:Tron parts, but the red canopy is either from Classic Space or Space Police 1 as are the blue pieces. Maybe if you walk through the lists of Classic Space / Futuron / Blacktron / M:Tron / Space Police 1 and probably Blacktron II with your son, he can remember which sets he owned. I am his age and I remember very well which sets I owned. Best is of course if you can find the instructions. If all fails, it is possible to enter all the pieces in your Rebrickable Account and then re-combine them into actual sets... Best regards, Markus
  32. 2 points
    Vokhev

    Stickers

    It's interesting because we come at it from very different angles. I honestly don't really care about the build functions. I sometimes use it to see if there are sets I don't have that I could build but it's mostly just out of curiosity. The one thing I use it for is when I'm trying to assemble a set myself out of bought parts to add to my collection. I then set the options to not include my sets in build calculations and I see what loose parts I need to get to complete the set. That's all. To me, the main use of Rebrickable is for inventory. I have to admit, I didn't follow everything Biodreamer said. But tome, the important is to be able to know that: For part X in blue, I have: - 5 without stickers - 2 with sticker A - 1 with sticker B Instead of what I get now where it only tells me I have: - 8 of this part in blue (and I have to remember some of these have stickers) If a solution can do that I would be happy.
  33. 2 points
    Vokhev

    Stickers

    But, aren't the discussion functions on the site all either in MOCs, sets or parts? That's ok if you want to talk about one of these but for general discussions, you would never find them if they were in the comments of MOC #28495. Funny, maybe it's because the MOC part of Rebrickable is not the interesting one for me, maybe it's because I'm used to discussing possibilities for community projects like Rebrickable on a forum, but it feels much more natural to talk about this here. For people, mostly interested in talking about specific items (a MOC, a set or a part), it's ok to not come here. This is a place for more general discussions. It's unfortunate to not have more people interested in talking about ideas that are more "big picture". But if they're not interested in developing the site itself, we can't force them to be interested. But there's at least 3 of us here. So even if it's just between the 3 of us, what do you think of the idea in the original post?
  34. 2 points
    Hi, Elanin, welcome to the forum, This question has been asked before, by Diniz I think, but, as far as I can remember, no real answers were given. So let me try to explain what goes on, here. First some history... People have been talking about LEGO on the internet from even before the very start of the world-wide-web, which was invented in 1989, but only became really used actively with the foundation of the World Wide Web Consortium (W3C) in 1994. In January of 1993 the usenet newsgroup alt.toys.lego was founded, which was superseded by rec.toys.lego in 1994. This allowed LEGO fans world-wide to communicate through e-mail, and that infant online community mostly moved to LUGNET in 1998. In 1995 James Jessiman developed the original LDraw software and its file format, which allowed LEGO fans to start building virtual LEGO models. So by the time LEGO.com was launched, in 1996, there were several active LEGO fan communities, and one of the first large websites dedicated to LEGO inventories was Peeron, which was launched in 2001. In those years, LEGO did not disclose any information about the colors they were using, so, naturally, LEGO fans invented their own color names. So we had Red, Blue, Yellow, White and Green, Light Grey and Dark Grey, and so on. Then in 2003, TLG (The LEGO Group) replaced many colors with new versions - most notably the greys, going from Light Grey to Light Bluish Grey, and Dark Grey to Dark Bluish Grey. Then, in the late 2000s, TLG began mixing their own ABS colors from raw granulate (before that year they had outsourced their color mixing to Bayer Germany and were receiving pre-colored ABS pellets). TLG also decided to rename a whole bunch of colors, and that is when the problem started. What fans had been calling Light Green since 1994, LEGO renamed to Medium Green. Bright Green was not renamed, but what fans had been calling Green since 1949, LEGO renamed to "Dark Green", and they introduced another Dark Green, which they called Earth Green. Can you image the problems fans had with these new names? And a few years earlier we had already gone mad about the changing grey colors... To make a long story short, Peeron did not want to update all their inventories, and they added a color chart with their own names and the new LEGO names. So did the Ldraw community. When Bricklink was launched on June 19, 2000, they copied both color charts, and created their own. When Rebrickable was created, mid 2011, we did the same. So whenever we import an inventory directly from LEGO, we translate the color names according to our color chart (Main Menu > Parts > Colors). Brickset is a bit of a exception, as they use Rebrickable's inventories for older sets, and show their own LEGO inventories for newer sets. Which is why, if you look at Brickset's inventory for set 31058-1 - Mighty Dinosaurs, you will see the LEGO color names. Brickset used the original LEGO inventory for that one. Now, our inventories might contain errors, so there might color errors in the inventory of set 31058. Obviously, either Bricklink of Brickset inventories might also contain errors. So if you find a part, and you really think our inventory lists the wrong color, then, please, tell us about it, so we can fix it. Hope this explanation makes some sense, if not, just keep asking... -smile- Take care, Simon
  35. 2 points
    Simon

    MOC from The Last Jedi

    Introduction to Virtual Building Guide to LEGO Digital Designer Guide to Bricklink Stud.io Guide to Rendering (will follow in two weeks or so...) If you have any questions, after reading these, please let me know
  36. 2 points
    As Dragma explained you can use the page_size-parameter. But you should also look into the thread in this forum. Nathan explained that the standard page-size has been lowered to 100 and 1000 is the maximum you can give it in a call. In case your set has more than 1000 parts (unique in part_num and color; is there a set like this?) you have to use the next page URL given by the response-field named "next" in the very beginning of the response. If you want to fill a list or alike in a program/app, you can collect all results by calling first the API-function and then call the URL given by "next" until "next" is null. By this way you are not depending on changes in the defaults Nathan may change from time to time due to performance or other reasons.
  37. 2 points
    I got it working, the part_img_url field should show the appropriate image color now.
  38. 2 points
    Turbo8702

    Adding tags before submitting

    One thing I would really enjoy is the ability to add tags to a MOC before I submit it. As it is right now, I usually end up forgetting to go back to my MOC and add the tags. Not a drastic change, but it's one that I feel would come in handy for both myself and a lot of other users too.
  39. 2 points
    Brickfan

    Comment Spam?

    I missed the parts of the thread which have been edited by Nathan, so I am not sure excatly how 'bad' things became in the comments, but I can sense that there was something which was not ideal in what remains. I am pleased that this site has a policy of non offensive comments. It is nice to be able to enjoy the creativity of others abilities and comment and read comments from others without worrying about whether you will come across offensive language etc., such as I sometimes see in comments sections of you tube videos about most things, but even videos of lego creations seem to get polluted with bad language (and often it is not the creator of the Lego model, just other people). Thanks for encouraging a nice clean and polite site.
  40. 2 points
    TobyMac

    Help identifying Minifig part

    87560pr0001
  41. 2 points
    I just noticed that there is a function to move the set to another list in the exact same screen. It's not a bulk move but it can do the job.
  42. 2 points
    If you go to your set list, there is a button on each set "Edit the set". There, you can change the number or delete it. But I also wonder if there is a way to move sets from one list to another, ideally in bulk. Removing and adding sets again forces you to reenter things like lost parts and whether you have spare parts or not. I didn't find it that important before but with the new limits on how many sets can be in one list, people will eventually need to split lists in two or more lists.
  43. 2 points
    legolijntje

    What happens to old part numbers?

    There is sort of. The 'Export as LDCad Parts Bin' option creates a parts list file for the LDraw editor called LDcad.
  44. 2 points
    BrinkLink gives each minifigure an ID and identifies the individual parts that make up the minifigure. It would be helpful if Rebrickable allowed using ids in parts lists or, at the least, treat minifigures as a kind of set with their own parts.
  45. 2 points
    sheo

    Part photos

    Small suggestions regarding the new part photos feature: 1. Allow magnification of photos. 2. Add additional categories of photos: mold variations, alternative angle (e.g. undersides of parts) etc. 3. Allow adding photos to assemblies, kits and other unusable parts (which is currently not possible) - this may be helpful when searching parts from other catalogs. 4. Show who submitted the photo (compare to Bricklink).
  46. 2 points
    TobyMac

    From forum back to the main page

    Is it me or can't I find a link back to the main rebrickable.com when you're on the forum?
  47. 2 points
    Nathan

    From forum back to the main page

    Clicking the logo now takes you back to the main site
  48. 2 points
    AxeSlash

    Search within parts lists

    It would be nice to be able to search for parts within parts lists/inventories etc. For example if I want to see how many of a certain part I have in stock, I have to filter it and then manually look through the parts, OR search for the part (and leave my parts list)
  49. 2 points
    thea

    Build Option For Minifigs Only?

    I think so too! But...It won't happen in v3. This is a bricks and plates(especially Technic ones ) kind of site. I've managed to infiltrate it, and get some minifig stuff past the bouncer at the door. Just give me a little more time.
  50. 1 point
    sheo

    Searching parts by Element IDs

    When searching parts by Element IDs, it seems more reasonable to redirect user to the page with the corresponding color of the part instead of the general part page. Considering that currently there are no Element IDs on the general part pages (sadly), it may be not obvious why this page is shown and which color we were searching.