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  1. Today
  2. Im thinking about buying the instructions of a moc for the first time, and i dont know how it works. I think its a Rebrickable Hosted Premium moc. You just pay with paypal and then you can download the instructions? Any help given wil be appreciated. Please help me. Thanks
  3. Yesterday
  4. Hi Everyone, As I'm sure you've all noticed, I have been doing a lot of work on the minifig categories over the past year-ish(?) I have left the two hardest categories last for obvious reasons, Minifig Upper Body will be started shortly (hopefully). The lower body category actually hasn't been too bad (Heads was way harder!) The most challenging thing was to bring the numbering standards back in line with how they were originally set up on this site but over the last 3-4 years have been ignored. This had affected different colored legs and the newer Multi-color injected legs. I have adjusted a lot of parts to correctly reflect their: a) Assembly numbering standard, b) Pattern numbering standard, and c) Print numbering standard. So for example if a part has Black hips on a different colored upper leg (the parts color in its set) and Yellow 'Boots' (multi-color injection) it has the number 21019(part number for multi-color injections)x026(Assembly number for Black Hips)pat02(Pattern number for Yellow Boots on Black Hips) 21019x026pat02. It's simpler for hips that have the same color as the part, so for Same colored Hips and Upper Legs the number is 21019c00, add the relevant pattern number for lower legs (Boots), eg Light Bluish Gray is pat021, so it becomes 21019c00pat021. These numbers aren't new to the site. I created nothing, I'm just implementing what we already had started but failed to continue. Now that's clear as mud here's the reason for my post. Lego EID images are not very clear when looking at the MCI parts. Some I was able to tell from photos that have been submitted, some I was able to check my personal collection for. Some are my best educated guess, If I wasn't sure I left it as it was. This means I may have missed some, or even changed some incorrectly. I need your help to determine any errors that I may have made. And to submit rear images of the MCI parts so it's clear to users that those parts aren't just prints but are different patterns of Legs. Take a look at the categories and let me know what you think. (please be kind, it's been a lot of hours work, haha) Thanks, Jared EDIT: Forgot to say, category is not 100% complete, still 300ish parts left to sort out.
  5. In descending order of total cost. This would allow optimizing the part list much more easily by focusing on the most expensive parts first.
  6. Last week
  7. Works fine for me. It finds my 15391’s no problem. Have you got that part list (Stufi) checked to be used in build calcs too?
  8. I have tried everything that is possible. I went through all the settings. I have tried to add a very small set as an example. Look at this here: I have this part in my partlist "Stufi". It's definately there but the calculation says that it's missing. I don't know how to solve this...
  9. Which set is it? It could be that there are multiple inventory versions of the set. If you for instance have V1 added to your set list, and the calculation looks at V2.
  10. What are your other build calc settings? If you have exclude minifig parts, or prints, or non-LEGO (tools and stickers) they all may have an effect on the %. Another thing to try may be to remove and re-add the set to the list.
  11. Thanks for the hint. no I had not. When I changed it the percentage changed to the better. 95% is now the best I get for a se t I own. For 21039 Shanghai I still get that I would own only 29% Maybe another thing I‘m missing.
  12. Have you got set list you add it to checked to include those sets in build calcs?
  13. I really like the function to compare Sets, MOCs and Custom Lists. However, the options what to do with the results are very limited. All the internal Rebrickable "targets" are missing, e.g. I would like to add the result of a comparison (or the common parts) to a new Custom or Parts List instead of just exporting to a file. This is e.g. very useful when you did combine the required parts for multiple builds into multiple Bricklink orders and you want to separate them out later again after reimporting the orders from Bricklink. I think this should be quite easy to add, right?
  14. I‘m having exactly the same issue. When I add original Lego sets I never get 100% of the parts. Even adding the parts to a parts list doesn't help. E.g. after adding 21028 New York it tells me that I have only 8% of the parts. Even if I use the ‚add parts of set to list‘ function the count only raises to 10%.
  15. Great to know! Thanks for the reply! That's something for me to keep in mind if I want to build something fairly big that can withstand transport to and from somewhere.
  16. Added! Put "sort=part" in the URL* to get this sorting order. For example: (* Using the normal URL rules of &-separated a=b things after a ?.)
  17. For reversibility I would go with something like a school glue, e.g. Elmer's. It won't be super strong but it should hold a model together and you can simply wash it off with warm water. For a more permanent approach you can use super glue. It'll definitely hold but, in theory, you can clean the glue off with a de-bonder. If you want it non-reversable then you can fuse the pieces together with a solvent such as M.E.K.
  18. I agree with biodreamer. You better release some instructions for free first. So people can look at them and know what kind of quality they can expect (how solid is the build, does the design capture the essence of its source material, does it come with easy to follow step by step building instructions in PDF format). If you want to enter in competitions you better not publish models first elsewhere, most competitions don't allow to enter material that was published prior to the competition. Also I would never ever pay any money for the instructions of a 30 piece MOC. Sorry if that sounds too negative but there really is no other way to put it. The problem is I wouldn't pay for something I haven't seen. But once I've seen a picture of a model I can recreate what I've seen without problems. Only if the model is so complex and sophisticated that recreating the parts I don't see in the picture would take more effort than just paying for the instructions I would consider paying for it. (for example Technic models where the internals are important to make the functions work, or star wars ships where structures have to be connected in strange angles and you can't see from the outside how that was achieved.)
  19. I do have a question: What glue would be "best" for such a purpose? Is there a reversibility factor involved in the choice as well? Asking "for a friend" ;)
  20. Greetings, kind builder :) Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. 100 bricks does not sound like a really hard limitation to me. For that reason, it's a good thing that Premium is to set a bar of expectations. That said, I am hoping that my little MOC might be worth entering into a challenge that might get me a bit of recognition and maybe start my path towards making some money doing this. Many (many) years ago, I played with my Legos as a kid and was inspired. Life has cut this away from me, and now I find I miss them, so. Perhaps I am seeing this in a different light than many, but I am hoping that this is a start to something more therapeutic (if I'm use the word correctly here), and that it might be a way to help pay for itself. Maybe I can post some of these MOCs and ask for donations of pieces to make them, photograph them, and perhaps sell them later? I'll just toss the generated pic from the LDD program here for reference so there's a sense of what I have made and where I am coming from. Then people can decide and (hopefully) point me in a positive direction. Of note: the build does not include the minifigure shown. That's like the Ingur "banana for scale". The generated image is purely form the default output of the LDD program. Still learning here, so it may be a bit rough. Thanks again for the friendly feedback! It truly is appreciated, biodreamer :)
  21. bafti

    Missing Parts

    No, definately not. The parts in the partlist "Stufi" are all unused in sets.
  22. bafti

    Missing Parts

    The needed amount is 1 piece. And it's available in my List "Stufi". I have all the lists activated.
  23. welcome, Have you checked the help section of the site there is a lot of information and getting started guide in there that can be useful for you, and more is added so it can be worth checking it once in a while. 30 bricks is a bit to small for a premium build imo. I don't think they have enforced the minimum size yet but there is a plan to restrict premium to a bit larger sets. with small sets like 30 bricks you have a 3D puzzle that can be solved with a picture and the inventory with some difficulty depending on how compact it is. I think there is some things to consider before going premium. the first one is do the money really matter? I mean if it will end up just being pocket money for you should consider releasing it for free and allow donations. and let as many enjoy the fruit of your work. I a in this camp, there is so many better ways to earn money that I wouldn't charge for a model even if it took months to complete. another reason to see if you actually have the potential support for a premium is to release the first few MOCS free to see how popular they are. if you put a paywall straight up your less likely to know the answer. and it can be a good idea to do a mix, Have some small free models available that might draw attention to the larger payed ones.
  24. Greetings, kind builders! I'm new here, and have just finished using the Lego Digital Designer to build my first ever file to share. That said, I am wondering how I would do that, and what it takes to have something qualify as "Premium" so that I might get paid in some way (eventually). So far, I have a single build of a B'Omarr Monk that might be of interest to some Star Wars fans out there, and don't want it to get "appropriated" by someone else as their own. After all, it could be worthy of entering into a contest, so I would like to be careful. Helpful suggestions greatly appreciated! Basic specs are as follows: 30 Bricks Includes 1 "special" pre-printed tile that can easily be ignored. Has 21 steps, but repeat building of the leg units is easy... I have a "complete" .MHT file of the build instructions that includes the brick inventory, as well as the example "render" pics. Hoping to not give everything away if there's a chance to earn decent points here somewhere. Thanks for reading, and I look forward to seeing where this goes!
  25. Earlier
  26. Not glue, so the parts can be recycled into something else the day the mosaic isn't wanted anymore.
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