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  1. Today
  2. infiniter

    Xingbao?

    Hmm. I should have read the other topic. It must be LEGO parts here? How medieval! Well, there are surely other, more open MOC forums. So sad.
  3. infiniter

    Xingbao?

    Hello! I'm new to Rebrickable, MOCs and the world beyond Lego. Thus I was totally surprised to be unable to find sets or parts lists to add from Xingbao. The SA-4 Ganef, for example, is currently available for just 25 € from bluebrixx.com and would be a cheap source of grey and white parts. Has really no one ever made a part list for the Xingbao sets?
  4. Yesterday
  5. ZiO

    Someone stolen my creations

    Because my mail is not yet been replied, I post here to call for help. I think it is a serious problem, could anyone tolerate his own creations been replicated for business? Dear Rebrickable administrator: It is sad to say there are some of my creations been replicated and posted on the Rebrickable site. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-28757/JamesSpookie/halo-pelican/#comments https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-28771/JamesSpookie/scorpion/#comments Although this builder had modified my creations a little, I still can tell they are 99% replicated from mine! https://www.flickr.com/photos/zio_creation/4650361738/in/album-72157651096469576/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/zio_creation/2716865444/in/album-72157651096469576/ I also found he might replicate others creation: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-28873/JamesSpookie/colonial-raptor/#comments original builder: https://www.flickr.com/photos/wintermute2600/albums/72157606553549525 How would you approach this problem? Thanks
  6. Hello, Simple question. Where do I go to see my MOC sales? Thanks,
  7. Last week
  8. Hi, I have lost 25 Technic Bushes (https://rebrickable.com/parts/4265a/technic-bush-12-toothed-type-i-opening/) in total, spread over 5 sets. The quantities are 3, 4, 4, 4 and 10. On the Buy Parts view of My Lost Parts, I click on the Buy button of a shop and only one of the five quantities (in this case 10) is transferred into to shopping cart, although there are more in stock at this shop. I guess it's a bug or do I have misconfigured something? Thanks. Niko
  9. https://youtu.be/_w3IOVduTtM
  10. It seems that similar situation is also with normal tiles with or without groove. Using same method as above (investigating my own sets and looking at the official pictures) it's very probable that tiles with groove were introduced only in 1976. So that would mean that all sets before that year should exlusively use tiles without groove. So I suggest following: update all sets before 1976 (exlusive) to use tiles without groove and all sets before 1993 (exlusive) to use 2412a. The rest of the sets should be considered as being in transition period (how long?) and therefore can possibly use either variant. Most of the time the inventory already lists the newer mold but additional inventory with the older one can possibly be added on the case by case basis. Does this makes sense or has someone better solution (ideally not just "doing nothing")?
  11. Earlier
  12. yep looks like there is some sets from 1990 and 1991 that clearly shouldn't have the 2412b. I can confirm 6354-1 and 1611-1 used the old 2412a.
  13. Unfortunately, I entered my dark age a few years before that so I can't really help with that one. One trick is to check for rare colors that would have been produced only before or after the proposed switch date and see if any of that color are on the market. Also, it might be a good idea to start a separate topic for this conversation instead of putting it all in this generic set inventory topic.
  14. I found the answer to 1) as well. The only question standing is 3).
  15. I've found the answer to the most important ones. I'm still looking for an answer to 1) and 3) though.
  16. Yes, I'm aware of the of the fact that there's no perfect solution. That doesn't mean, though, that current situation can't be improved. If we can't achieve 100% accuracy we can at least improve at consistency. I've quite a lot of sets from this period from various sources and I have way more extra 2412a parts (without bottom groove) than what I would expect from the sets' part lists. That for me is kind of statistical proof that most of the sets before 1992 which now list 2412b among their parts lists actually use 2412a. Btw isn't it actually so that 2412b was introduced only in 1993 and so that was when the transition period started? Because if that was true then there would be now argument about what to do with the older sets. They should simply all use 2412a.
  17. We had the same kind of problems when we did the plates with clips and cliplights a few years ago. Also, you can't rely on set pictures, event from the actual boxes. I've had new sets that contained variants different from the ones on the box and instructions. There's usually a transition period of few years when both versions were in use, sometimes in the very same box. I think there is sadly no perfect solution to this.
  18. Sorry if this is the wrong place. Where can I find that forum?
  19. You should really post these questions on the studio.io forum, so if the feature doesn't exist it might be added by the developers. I can't help studio.io doesn't run on any of my computers so I have never had the chance to learn how to use the instruction part because their software broke for me before that was implemented.
  20. Hi all, I'm new to rebrickable. I've already found some great MOC's which my 4yo son really likes to build. Especially the ones where the building instructions are included, without them it becomes too hard for him. So, to give something back (and because I loved doing it) I've build my first MOC that I want to share. I've build the model in real life, I've build the model in stud.io and I've broken it down into steps, exactly like I want it. But after that I get a little bit stuck. There are some things that I would like to do, which I just can't get to work. I hope you all could help me out here. 1) When I'm in 'page design' all the new parts are surrounded by red lines. Is there a way to switch these off? 2) Sometimes I want to look at my build from below and sometimes from above. How can I switch the orientation between steps? I can change the orientation, but then it changes for all the steps at the same time. 3) Is there a way to move the pieces around in the 'you need this to build this step'-box? 4) Is there a way to move pictures from one step to another? I sometimes want this when I don't want to include every substep of every hinge plate, for example. I think these are all my questions for now, but more might pop up when I continue to make the instructions. Thanks!
  21. The problem with transitions periods is that they are different depending on color, I mean they produce each color in batches and they last different amount of time before they run out depending on how common the color was at the time. So it's impossible to have an accurate picture of when the move was made. Especially since there has been multiple factories for a very long time and then you have those last straggler pieces that end up in the bottom of the container that suddenly appear in a new sets way after they where out of production. this is why the best way is to do bulk change and then adjust it slightly on request because you can never hit the nail perfectly on a bulk change. But the time frame sounds quite right on this one.
  22. Then I suggest setting the hard date as 1992/1993. Even if it might not be 100% correct in all cases it will definitely improve current situation which seems to be quite random. As already said anyone with more info is free to submit a change request later. But generally the bulk update should do majority of the work needed.
  23. This can be done with an ugly database hack, but we need 100% certainty of the transition year, because there is no undo button. Giving a hard date is difficult, because it often occurs that one color is sooner swapped than another, depending on stock and usages in sets,
  24. I have general suggestion involving many early 90s sets. It's about the special tile 2412a vs 2412b. Based on my "research" (looking at the pictures of various sets - on Bricklink since it sometimes has higher quality images then Rebrickable) I've found out that 2412a was consistently used till 1992 while 2412b is consistently used since 1993. The problem is that this consistency is not reflected on Rebrickable parts lists of sets from this period. Many sets from 1990-1992 use 2412b while others (not so many) from 1993 onwards use 2412a. As an example see e.g. 6551, 6354 or 1632. I can imagine that there perhaps was some transition period where TLG included both 2412a or 2412b in different copies of a single set. This should however rather be reflected by creating two separate inventories for the set - assuming anyone has appropriate knowledge, ideally multiple sealed copies of a single set. Until someone provides such "proof" I suggest to bulk change all sets prior 1992 (inclusive) to use 2412a while the rest (from 1993 onwards) to use 2412b. Does this make sense to you? Does anyone have better info about the 2412a/2412b situation than I have? Can this change if approved by the community be done automatically by the moderators? If not I'm willing to manually edit the sets (or rather make suggestions) myselfs.
  25. TuPug

    Creating an inventory list

    Thanks, I hadn't heard of LDraw before. I'll give that a try.
  26. Hm, I thought it was possible to import stud.io files directly into Rebrickable. Well, in any case, what certainly works: you should be able to export from stud.io to LDraw and import the LDraw file into Rebrickable.
  27. Hi everyone, I just joined Rebrickable and I'm excited to share my lego puzzle boxes with you. I'm struggling to figure out how to create an inventory list to upload with my MOC. I can't seem to do it in Studio 2.0 and I can't import my design from Studio into LDD (which I understand can be used to create an inventory list). I'd appreciate a shove in the right direction. Thanks in advance.
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